Designed by bobwilson123
Converted to written format by Mackena
Video Tutorial - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEffgaeEbus&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PLFF1CD5D2E05848B6
Crochet Basic DC Crown
The basic dc crown can be used for the beginning of many hat designs.
The measurements given are an approximate as many yarns will differ from brand to brand.
US 4 ply and a 4.00mm hook (US G/6).
2 stitch markers – When we use the stitch markers they are GUIDE ONLY they do not mark the EXACT STITCH
Scissors
Yarn Needle
2 stitch markers – When we use the stitch markers they are GUIDE ONLY they do not mark the EXACT STITCH
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Optional 1x button small enough to fit though your stitches
Stitches Used:
CH
DC= double crochet
SS= slip stitch
Notes: the beginning ch 3 is counted as a dc.
To begin: Ch 4and join with a slip stitch to make a ring
Row 1: Ch 3, Work 11 dc into the ring, sl st to join in top of ch 3. (12 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (24 dc)
Row3: Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (36 dc)
Row 4: Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (48 dc)
Row 5: Ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (60 dc)
Row 6: Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (72 dc)
Divide stitches on the round you just completed into three and put stitch markers at the thirds (i.e. 3/72st = 24) This is the formula I will use in the pattern. But remember, as long as you can divide the remaining third in the front area by 4 you are good otherwise move stitches in or out to make the front section divisible by 4.
CH
DC= double crochet
SS= slip stitch
Notes: the beginning ch 3 is counted as a dc.
To begin: Ch 4and join with a slip stitch to make a ring
Row 1: Ch 3, Work 11 dc into the ring, sl st to join in top of ch 3. (12 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3, work 1 dc in same place as ch 3, work 2 dc in each dc around, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (24 dc)
Row3: Ch 3, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (36 dc)
Row 4: Ch 3, work 1 dc in next dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (48 dc)
Row 5: Ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (60 dc)
Row 6: Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 3 dc, work 2 dc in next dc, *work 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, work 2 dc in next dc,* repeat from *to* to end, sl st to join in top of ch 3 (72 dc)
Divide stitches on the round you just completed into three and put stitch markers at the thirds (i.e. 3/72st = 24) This is the formula I will use in the pattern. But remember, as long as you can divide the remaining third in the front area by 4 you are good otherwise move stitches in or out to make the front section divisible by 4.
Remember - When we use the stitch markers they are GUIDE ONLY they do not mark the EXACT STITCH
Row 1: ch 3, DC into first (24) stitches to marker; AT the marker, *2dc into the same stitch replacing the stitch marker into that stitch; dc into next 2 st,* repeat** to next marker replacing the second stitch marker into the second dc of the last increase Then DC in the last 24 st. SS to join.
Row 2: ch 3. DC all the way around, ss to join. Remember to move the stitch markers up as you go passed them
Row 3: ch 3. Repeat row 1 except make increase 2dctog and then 3 dc in next three (row 1 was 2dctog and 2dc) repeat to next marker ending on 1dc in last marker, then 1dc in next to end ss to close.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat Row 3 however, increase round with 2dctog then 4 in between markers. SS to close.
Row 6: ch 3. dc into each stitch to marker; 2dctog-dec to next stitch marker (pulls in the front of the cap), 1dc in each to the last, ss to join.
Row 7: ch 3. DC into each stitch to marker; *2dctog-dec, 1 dc in next st,* repeat ** to next stitch marker (pulls in the front of the cap), 1dc in each to the last, ss to join.
Row 8: ch 3. DC in each st all around, ss to join. Remember to move up markers as you reach them.
Row 9: ch 1, sc in each st around, ss to join. Move up markers. Tie off.
BRIM:
Marking 7 stitches from the center front replace markers just in case they are not even.
For the first row you will be working the row below so that it has a nice firm foundation row for the brim
Row 1: Using 2 strands of yarn for the brim with RS facing, attach to first marker, weaving end as you go. Ch1. 2 sc into the space below the previous row’s sc, *1sc in next 2 sp, 2sc-inc*, repeat** until next marker. Ch1 turn.
Row 2: Sc across. Sc down into the next available stitch in row 1, then ss into the next two spaces, ch1, turn.
Row 1: Using 2 strands of yarn for the brim with RS facing, attach to first marker, weaving end as you go. Ch1. 2 sc into the space below the previous row’s sc, *1sc in next 2 sp, 2sc-inc*, repeat** until next marker. Ch1 turn.
Row 2: Sc across. Sc down into the next available stitch in row 1, then ss into the next two spaces, ch1, turn.
Row 3: *1 sc into the next 2 stitches, inc, 1 sc into next 2 st*, , repeat from *to* to end then to attach to the base again as in row 1, however, do a hdc into next SPACE below next sc st, then 2 ss into next 2 st, ch1 turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Repeat Row 3, instead of finishing off work around the whole hat until the edge of the other side of the brim. Ss to join. Tie off and weave in ends.
Finishing:
Flatten hat out and take button and threaded needle, find the center point of the brim, sew the button at the back of the brim close to the inside, attach button to the top of the hat to secure.
OR You can stitch it down
No comments:
Post a Comment