Basketweave Crochet Hat

Basketweave Crochet Hat

Video Tutorial: Basketweave Crochet Hat

Written by Teresa Richardson

Skill Level: Intermediate
Abbreviations
FPDC = Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC = Back Post Double Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
CH = Chain
SL ST = Slip Stitch
EA = Each
BEG = Beginning

Size I Crochet Hook
4-ply Worsted Weight Yarn

Gauge:4 inches = 8 Rows4 inches = 10 Stitches

NOTE: There is a chain 1 used at the beginning of each round. This chain 1 will not count as a stitch. It is just used as a step up to the next round. It will also help eliminate noticeable seams.

Post Stitch Note: Complete each new post stitch around the chain 1 and the first stitch.

Chain 4, join

Round 1: CH 1, 15, HDC through the CH, join (15 Half Double Crochet)

Round 2: CH 1, 1 HDC between each stitch in the previous row. (15 Half Double Crochet)

Round 3: Ch 1, *1 HDC between the next St's, 1 HDC in the top of the next ST. Complete 15 times total from *. join in beginning stitch. (30 Half Double Crochet) This is an increase round with staggered stitches.

Round 4: CH 1, *1 HDC between the next St's, 1 HDC in the top of the next ST. Complete 26 times total from *. 1 HDC in ea of the last 2 stitches. We want to end up with 56 stitches exactly with this round. The next rounds will be done in segments of 4 so that is why we need the even number. (56 Half Double Crochet)

Round 5: Ch1, *1 BPDC around ea of the next 4, 1 DC in ea of the next 4 stitches, Complete 7 times total from *, join. (56 Stitches)

Round 6: Ch 1, * 1 DC in ea of the next 4 st's, 1 FPDC around ea of the next 4 st's. Complete 7 times total from *, join. (56 Stitches)

Round 7: Ch 1, * 1 DC in ea of the next 4 st's, 1 BPDC around ea of the next 4 st's. Complete 7 times total from *, join. (56 Stitches)

Round 8: Ch1, *1 FPDC around ea of the next 4, 1 DC in ea of the next 4 stitches, Complete 7 times total from *, join. (56 Stitches)

Round 9-16: Complete rounds 5-8, 2 more times for the length. Continue with rounds 5-8 in order for a longer length. (56 Stitches)

roze bracelet

Supplies:
Small amount cotton (or other worsted weight) yarn, one or two colors
Size 5mm (H/8) hook


Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
Sc - single crochet
Dc - double crochet

Instructions for Baby Bracelet:
Ch 13.  Join to first ch, being careful not to twist.  (You now have a circle of 12 chs)
Row 1: Ch 1.  *In next ch, 4 sc.  1 sc in next ch.  Repeat around.
Row 2: Turn the bracelet to work the other side of the chs, making sure the right side is still facing you. Sl st in the base of the ch, ch 1.  In the chs with 4 sc, work 1 sc.  In the chs with 1 sc, work 4 sc.  Finish off, weave in ends.

Instructions for Mommy Bracelet:
Ch 25.  Join to first ch, being careful not to twist.  (You now have a circle of 24 chs)
Row 1: *Work 5 dc in second ch from hook.  Skip one ch, sl st in next ch.  Repeat around.
Row 2: Turn the bracelet to work the other side of the chs, making sure the right side is still facing you. Sl st in the base of the ch, sl st over to a ch with 5 dcs worked into it.  *Work 5 dc in second ch from hook.  Skip one ch, sl st in next ch.  Repeat around.  Finish off, weave in ends.

Note - The size can be adjusted up or down by adding or subtracting foundation ch stitches.  Just make sure you have an odd number.  The bracelet will be the size of the stretched out foundation ch, and it will not stretch. 

basketwave bracelet

Crochet Basketweave Bracelet


My Basketweave Bracelet could also be named The Bracelet That Languished on My Coffee Table For a Month Begging to Be Finished.  But that name is way too long!

Basketweave Bracelet

Pattern created by Gayle www.planetmfiles.com

Size: Approximately 1-1/2 inches wide, make it as long as you need it.

Materials:

Size 10 crochet thread. I used Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread in the color Blue Hawaii

Crochet Hook – Size US 7/1.5 mm
Buttons that will fit through your double or triple crochet.
Stitch markers.  I use small pieces of contrasting color crochet thread to use as markers.

Gauge: Not important

Abbreviations: ch = chain,  sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, st = stitch, dc = double crochet, fpdc = front post double crochet, bpdc = back post double crochet, tr = triple crochet

Notes: I find it helpful to use my stitch markers to mark the top of my turning chains as I make them and move the marker up as I go.

Pattern:

To begin: This portion of the bracelet is where you will eventually sew on the buttons.  You can make more or less rows of single crochets, depending on the size of your buttons.

chain 14.
Turn. sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 13 each row.  Repeat this row until there are enough rows to accommodate the size of your buttons.  I crocheted eight rows of sc’s to accommodate the size of my buttons.

Now, you are moving on to the basketweave portion of the bracelet.
Turn. ch 2 (mark the top of your turning chain!), dc across:  12 dcs + turning ch = 13
Turn. ch 2 (mark the top of your turning chain!), 1 fpdc, 3 bpdc’s, 3 fpdc’s, 3 bpdc’s, 1 fpdc, 1 dc in top of turning ch.
Turn. ch2,  (mark the top of your turning chain!), 1 bpdc, 3 fpdc’s, 3 bpdc’s, 3 fpdc’s, 1 bpdc, 1 dc in top of turning ch.
Repeat basketweave row #3.
Repeat basketweave row #2.
Continue on in the pattern of row  2 – 3 – 3 – 2  until your bracelet is the correct length.  I continued in this pattern until the working end of the bracelet just met the beginning of the bracelet when placed around my daughter’s wrist.

Now you will make the portion of the bracelet that serves as the button holes.
Turn. ch1, sc across – 13 (last sc is in the top of the turning ch of the previous row)
Turn. Now either ch 2 and dc across, or ch3 and tr across.  Whether you dc or tr will depend on your button size and which it fits through better.
Turn. Slip stitch across.  Finish off  and weave in the ends.

blue shell bracelet

Here is a quick and easy pattern for Kaldred, a crocheted bracelet/bangle.

As the UK & US have different crochet terminology, I have included both. For the Danes among you, Kaldred also comes in Danish.

Tip: try embellishing Kaldred with beads, buttons, sequins or ribbons.

Materials:
+ Crochet hook size 4mm (US size 6 or G if you cannot find a 6)
+ Approx 20 yards of Double-knitting or light worsted yarn. I used Rowan Denim.
+ Knitter’s needle for weaving in ends.

UK terminology:
Row 1: Ch 8, sl st to form circle. Ch 2, turn.
Row 2: 5 tr into circle, ch 4, 1 dc into circle, ch 2, turn.
Row 3: 5tr into the circle you formed in previous row, ch 4, 1 dc in circle, ch 2, turn.

Repeat Row 3 until one repeat short of desired length.

Then ch 5 tr into the circle you formed in previous row. Make sure that this row “leans” the opposite way of your starting point so that when you hold the end and the beginning together they form a continuous circle. Join the two ends together by slip stitching along the side of the chained circle.

Weave in ends.

US terminology:
Row 1: Ch 8, slip stitch to form circle, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: 5 dc into circle, ch 4, 1 sc into circle, ch 2, turn.
Row 3: 5 dc into the circle you formed in previous row, ch 4, 1 sc into circle, ch 2, turn.

Repeat Row 3 until one repeat short of desired length.

Then ch 5 dc into the circle you formed in previous row. Make sure that this row “leans” the opposite way of your starting point so that when you hold the end and the beginning together they form a continuous circle. Join the two ends together by slip stitching along the side of the chained circle.

Weave in ends.

Dansk opskrift:1. omg: Hækl 8 lm, saml dem til en ring m 1 km i første lm. 2 lm, vend.
2. omg.: 5 stm i ringen, 4 lm, 1 fm i ringen, 2 lm, vend.
3. omg.: 5 stm i ringen du dannede i forg. omg., 4 lm, 1 fm i ringen, 2 lm, vend.

Gentag 3. omg. indtil ønskede længde.

Dernæst hækl 5 stm i ringen du dannede i forg. omg. Sørg for, at denne gentagelse af viften hælder den anden vej end den allerførste vifte. Hækl de to ender sammen med km langs den første luftmaskering.

Hæft ender.

Enjoy! God fornøjelse!

V-Stitch Crochet Summer Hat

The purplish hat on the right is made with the V-stitch, a strand of 4-ply yarn and Bernat Boa yarn, working both strands at the same time. Using the novelty yarn will make the cap slightly larger.

Written by Teresa Richardson

Video Tutorial: V-Stitch Crochet Summer Hat

Abbreviations
CH - Chain
DC - Double Crochet
SL ST - Slip Stitch
LP - Loop
EA - Each
SP - Space
V-Stitch - Double Crochet, Chain 1, Double Crochet
V-Stitch Increase - Double Crochet, Chain 1, Double Crochet, Chain 1, Double Crochet

Materials
Size N Crochet Hook
4-ply Yarn

Gauge
6 Rows - 4"
4 V-Stitches - 4"

Magic Circle or chain 4, join.

Round 1: CH 4, DC through the loop, the chain 4 and double crochet count as the first V-Stitch. *DC, CH1, DC through the loop, complete 5 times total from *, join with beginning CH 3. (6 V-Stitch total)

Round 2: SL ST in to the CH 1 SP. CH 4, DC, CH 1, DC in the same space, the chain 4, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet count as the first V-Stitch increase. *DC, CH1, DC, CH1, DC through the CH 1 SP, complete 5 times total from *, join with beginning CH 3. (6 V-Stitch Increase total)

Round 3: SL ST in to the CH 1 SP. CH 4, DC in same sp, *DC, CH1, DC, through the CH 1 SP, complete 11 times total from *, join with beginning CH 3. (12 V-Stitch total)

Round 4: SL ST in to the CH 1 SP. CH 4, DC in same sp, V-Stitch Increase in next SP, *V-Stitch in next SP, V-Stitch Increase in next SP, Complete 5 times total from*, join with beginning CH 3. (6 V-Stitch ,6 V-Stitch Increase total, there will be 18 Ch 1 spaces total)

Round 5-12: SL ST in to the CH 1 SP. CH 4, DC in same SP, *V-Stitch in next SP, Complete 17 times total from*, join with beginning CH 3. (18 V-Stitch Total)

Brim
Row 1: CH 1, Skip 1 Stitch. Work 2 HDC in each of the next 19 stitches. SK 1 ST on the hat, SL ST in the next ST.

Row 2-3: SL ST to the next Stitch on the hat, turn, Work 1 HDC in each ST across. SL ST in the next stitch on the hat.

Crochet Pansy Flower Variation 1

4-Ply Worsted Weight Yarn

G Crochet Hook

Crochet Abbreviations:
SL ST = Slip Stitch

SC = Single Crochet
Ch = Chain
HDC = Half Double Crochet

TC = Triple Crochet

Video Tutorial: Crochet Pansy Flower Variation 1
Pattern by Teresa Richardson

Magic Circle or Chain 4.

Round 1: Ch 2, 9 HDC in the loop. Join in beg CH 2. (10 HDC total, counting the first CH 2 as a HDC)

Round 2: CH 1, SC in same ST. *CH 3, SK 1 ST and SC in the next ST, repeat 4 time from * CH 3, SK next ST, SL ST in beg SC to join. (5 CH 3 Loops all together) Join in beginning SC.

Round 3: SL ST in CH 3 Space. *CH 2, 9 TC in loop, CH 2, SL ST in same loop, SL ST in to next CH 3 loop. Repeat from * twice for a total of 2 petals. *CH 1, 9 DC in loop, CH 1, SL ST in same loop, SL ST in to next CH 3 loop. Repeat from * three times for a total of 3 petals. (2 Large petals, 3 Small petals)

Round 4: CH 2, SL ST in next st; continue around for the whole flower edging.

Blooming Purple Beanie

Materials:

• “Washable Ewe™”yarn: 1 ball 3540 Currant
• Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]
• Yarn needle
   

GAUGE: Round 1 of Hat = 1½” across; Rounds 1 and 2 of Hat = 2½” across. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Beg-Cl = Beginning Cluster – (first leg) Yo, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yo, and draw through 2 loops on hook; (2nd leg) yo, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through 3 remaining loops on hook.
Cl = Cluster – Yo, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice (2 loops remain on hook).
2Cltog = 2 Cluster Together – (first leg) Cl in indicated st (2 loops remain on hook; (2nd leg) Cl in next indicated st (3 loops remain on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
3Cltog = 3 Cluster Together – (first leg) Cl in indicated st (2 loops remain on hook; (2nd leg) Cl in next indicated st (3 loops remain on hook); (3rd leg) Cl in next indicated st (4 loops remain on hook), yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

NOTE: Hat and flower are worked with right side facing at all times. Do not turn at the end of rounds.


Instructions:

1. Ch 3; slip st in first ch from hook to form a ring.
    
2. Round 1 (Right Side): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 10 dc in ring; join with slip st in top of beginning ch—11 dc.
    
3. Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each remaining dc around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch—22 dc.
    
4. Round 3: Ch 2, Beg-Cl working first leg in same st as join, ch 3, Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook (horizontal Cl made – 2 loops remain on hook), Cl in same st as 2nd leg of previous Beg-Cl (3 loops remain on hook), Cl in next dc, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook, *ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in next dc; repeat from * 18 more times, ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in slip st join of previous round; ch 3, Beg-Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook; join with slip st in base of first horizontal Cl—22 horizontal Cl.
    
5. Rounds 4–12: Ch 2, 2Cltog working first leg in same st as join and 2nd leg at base of next horizontal Cl, *ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in base of next horizontal Cl; repeat from * 18 more times, ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in slip st join of previous round, ch 3, Beg-Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook; join with slip st in base of first horizontal Cl—22 horizontal Cl.
    
6. Fasten off.

FLOWER:

1. Ch 3; slip st in first ch to form a ring.
    
2. Round 1: [Sc in ring, ch 3] 6 times; join with slip st in first ch-3 space—6 sc and 6 ch-3 spaces.
    
3. Round 2: Ch 1, 5 sc in each ch-3 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals.
    
4. Round 3: Working behind the petals of Round 2, [slip st around post of next sc of Round 1, ch 3] 6 times; join with slip st in first ch-3 space.
    
5. Round 4: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals.
    
6. Round 5: Working behind petals of Round 4, ch 5, [skip next sc of Round 4, slip st around post of next sc of Round 4, ch 5] 5 times; join with slip st in first ch-5 space.
    
7. Round 6: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-5 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals.
    
8. Fasten off.

FINISHING:

1. Fold back brim. Using photograph as a guide, sew flower to hat.
    
2. Weave in ends.

Butterfly

round 1 : magic circle . 2 chains count as a stitch then 2 dc .ch1 3dc ( 8 times) so we will have 9 spaces of ch1 space

round 2 : 1 sc ch2 , put the hook in next space and make 3 dc ch1 .in the same space make another 3 dc ch1 . repeat in each space around .

round 3 : 8 dc in next space , sc in next space , repeat it for each space around

Crochet Eyelet Beanie with Brim

Hat

Materials :

8ply yarn

4mm crochet hook

Materials Needed:

4ply yarn

5mm crochet hook

Yarn Needle (for sewing in ends)

Stitches Used:

SlSt - Slip Stitch

Ch - Chain

Sc - Single Crochet

Dc - Double Crochet

SPECIAL STITCH: Hdc Dec - Half double crochet decrease: YO, go into st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO, go into next st, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), YO and pull through all 5 loops.

Starting with a magic circle, or ch5 and join to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch3 (counts as first Dc), 11 Dc into the centre of ring.  Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 2:Ch3, dc into same st. Ch1, *2dc, ch1, in next st. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 3: Ch3, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1 *dc in next st, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 4: Ch3, dc in next st, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. *Dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 5: Ch3, dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. *Dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

Rnd 6: Ch3, dc in each of the next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. *Dc in each of the next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, ch1, skip ch1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

**Repeat increase rounds for desired size of crown, always increasing as demonstrated above.**

PART 2

**Refer to crown pattern or video for proper crown sizing**

Rnd 7:Ch3, dc in each dc st of previous rnd, ch1, skip 1. *Dc in each dc, ch1, skip ch 1. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch3.

**Repeat Rnd 7 until the beanie is your desired length down the head.**

**OPTIONAL - If you need to make band around beanie snugger for brim**

Brim Decrease:

Rnd 1:Ch2 *Hdc into each of the next 4sts, hdc dec in next st. Repeat from * around. Join to top of ch2. Repeat this row again if needed.

BRIM - Worked with 2 strands of yarn.

Turn hat so the band is facing you. Lay the hat flat with the current stitch placed one inch or 4 stitches in from the edge. From the opposite edge count back 4 stitches or 1 inch (toward your working stitch) and place a stitch marker.

Brim is worked between the 2 markers

Row 1: Working in row bellow, work *1sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next* repeat from *to* across to marker. Ch1 and turn work. If the stitch count isn’t perfect it’s ok J

Row 2: 1sc in each st across to marker, sc into next st in the row below, slst into the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn work.

Row 3: *1sc into the next 3 sts, 2sc into the next st. Repeat from * across. Sc into the nest st in the lowest row, slst into the next 2 sts. CH1 and turn work.

Row 4: Sk 1 st, sc into the next st. Sc into each st across. Sc into next st on the lowest row, slst into the next 2st.

Fasten Off And Sew in Ends.

Mary Jane Style

Materials:

2 balls of 8ply/DK/Sports Weight yarn, 6mm crochet hook

OR

 1x7 oz of worsted weight and a 6mm crochet hook

2 buttons

Scissors

 Sewing needle
 

Abbreviations:    

beg = begin/beginning

ch = chain

hdc = half double crochet;  

 rep = repeat

 rnd(s) = round(s)

 sl st = slip stitch

st(s) = stitch(es)

 Notes: 

1) If using 8ply yarn Use both strands at the same time for thickness

2) You start at the toe & work your way back;

3) Front part of slipper is adjustable to any length;

4) Height of side/back of shoe is adjustable;

5) Keep stitches tight;

6) Sc could be used instead of hdc.

INSTRUCTIONS

TO CREATE FRONT OF SLIPPER

Beg at toe, Ch 5; join with sl st to beg ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1:  Ch 1, work 11 hdc into center of ring; join with sl st to top of 1^st st:  (12 sts)

Rnd 2:  Ch 1, hdc into same st where you joined; 2 hdc in each of the remaining sts, join with sl st to top of 1^st st:   (24 sts)

     ---Determine size/fit:  take disk you’ve made & put it on tip of your foot.  Disk               

         should be about as wide as your foot.  If it fits, ignore next increase round.  If not,

         add increase rnds as needed. Remember - the slipper will stretch!

Rnd 3:  Ch 1, * hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; rep from * to end, join with sl st in ch 1.  (this is your increase rnd)

     ---Repeat this rnd if needed until you’ve reached the width of your foot.

Rnd 4:  Ch 1, hdc in each st around, join with sl st in ch 1.

    ---After you work a couple of rnds, try it on over your foot.  If it’s too narrow, undo a

        couple of rnds and work in increase rnds. Once you’ve passed the toes the width is

        set. You just determine how far up your foot you want the top of the shoe to go.

Rnd 5 -  :  rep Rnd 4 until desired length (remember to count how many rnds/rows you do so you know what to do for the other shoe).

TO CREATE THE BACK OF SLIPPER

        Fold tube in half. You will now crochet rows from one side to the other (see   

        pic 1a).  Use stitch markers on each side. To make the slipper come up a bit higher

        on your foot, adjust starting point up a couple of sts on each side (see pic 1b)

Row 1:  Ch 1, hdc in each st until you reach stitch marker, ch 1, turn.

Row 2:  hdc in 2^nd st from hook, hdc in each st across row; hdc in the ch 1 from previous row, Ch 1, turn.

Row 3  :  repeat Row 2 until flap reaches the back of heel (see pic 2)

Sew the seam:  Fold flap in half and turn slipper so that the back of shoe faces you.  Hold flap up so that one side of fold is facing you (see pics 3 - 4).

        Step 1:  hdc in 1^st st of front piece; sl st in 1^st st of back piece

        Step 2:  hdc in next st of front piece; sl st in next st of back piece

        Step 3: rep step 2 in the remaining sts in the front and back pieces; on the last st

                     just sl st through both front/back pieces.

        Step 4:  Ch 1, fasten off.  Weave in ends. (you could also use your own preferred

                     method of creating a seam)

Stitch around the opening: 

        Step 1:  Pick a stitch anywhere in slipper opening, insert hook & pull yarn through

        Step 2:  Ch1, hdc in “spaces” all around the top of opening (work as evenly as

                     Possible in as many rnds as you like)

        Step 3:  Sl st into 1^st st you made in the rnd.  Cut yarn, fasten off.  Weave in ends.

TO CREATE THE STRAP

Pick spot along slipper opening where you want to put the strap. Insert hook, pull yarn through

Row 1:  ch1; hdc in same space, hdc in next 3 spaces; ch 2, turn

Row 2:  hdc in 2^nd st from hook, hdc in each st across; ch 2, turn

Row 3 - ?:  rep Row 2 until strap is long enough (try on to determine length)

Last Row:  hdc in 2^nd st from hook, hdc in each st across; ch a few times to create button hole (depends on button size); turn work, sl st to other side.  See if button will fit through loop you’ve made.

To finish button loop:  hdc a few times around the loop, sl st in strap at end of loop.

Sew button onto shoe. 

For other shoe, be sure to make strap on opposite side, and to sew button on opposite side as well.